Lolita style help please?

Your whole point about "inexpensive" is contrary to a lot of what lolita is. Lolita calls for high quality fabric and fit that can not be achieved on a budget. For this fact, many people make their own lolita inspired clothing as it becomes to difficult to have something tailored and altered constantly. My biggest recommendation would be to do your research first on a fashion subculture before trying to integrate yourself into one. If you really want a designer that has a style similar to that turn of the century feel look into Alexander McQueen. Dark fabrics, lace, much of those themes are covered in his line.